Hamburg

I slept much better on this night train than the last one we took (from Venice to Vienna). I think it was because I used earplugs. Also, it seemed like we were not moving for a long period of time.

In the morning, we got ready and had breakfast in the dining car. Did I mention that I love rail travel? Our waitress informed us that there was some unexpected track work overnight and we were delayed 110 minutes. That explains why I slept so well.

While we waited in our cabin, Darcy had time to pick at her feet. And so the obsession continues.

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When we arrived in Hamburg, we searched out a hotel near the train station. A gentleman asked if he could help us. He directed us to where we could find a bunch of budget hotels. After directing us he said, “Where are you from, Australia?”

“No, Minnesota, United States” I responded.

He smiled and walked away. Possibly I am looking into this too much, but it seemed that right after I said I was from the States, he didn’t want anything to do with me. Maybe I’m reading it all wrong, but that is how I felt.

We checked into Pension Nord near the train station and our room was quite large. It had high ceilings, large windows, and a shower. Not a bad place.

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By this time, laundry was long overdue, so we decided to take care of that right away. The guy at the front desk directed us to a laundromat close by. Across the street from the laundromat was an Internet café. We were able to shower, do laundry, and take care of our Internet business within an hour. How convenient.

At the Internet café, a guy picked me out as an American. He lived in San Diego for ten years and misses America.

“Around here, all the stores close at 6:00 and they are not even open on Sundays” he says. “What is wrong with these people? Don’t they want to make money?” he continues.

I didn’t respond since my hope is that the rest of the world doesn’t follow our money grubbing example. The man went on.

“I feel like I’m more American than I am German.”

I am beginning to feel the opposite.

Next, we ate a small lunch at a café. Our total bill was Є7 or something. It was quite the relief after spending several days in Switzerland.

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We didn’t actually do much in Hamburg. We walked up the main shopping street, and, as you knew I would mention, there was an H&M. I bought a shirt at United Colors of Benetton because we see them everywhere as well.

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Next, we walked to the Rathaus (City Hall) and up to Stephensplate and the Old Botanical Garden.

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We walked the length of a parkway down to Landungsbrücken. I am in awe of the beautiful parks we have seen in Europe. Hamburg is no exception.

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Along the way, Darcy played on a zipline and we saw a large Bismarck memorial. I just about got a chubby when I saw all the homage being paid to my hometown. I can’t believe they named a ship and a German chancellor after it ;)

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At Landungsbrücken, we saw a large, old ship turned into a museum, then we walked toward St. Pauli.

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St. Pauli was a weird mix of sex shops, liquor stores, and sleek glass condominiums. There were a lot of scruffy looking guys hanging out on doorsteps drinking beer. Speaking of beer, I didn’t see St. Pauli beer being sold anywhere. Is that even a German beer? I will have to check it out.

We took the metro back to the train station. Hamburg has a kick-ass public transportation system, of course.

I searched out some free WiFi near the station. I felt a little out of place with my laptop on a railing, in a public square, while hundreds of people walked by. Whatever, I will take free WiFi wherever I can get it.

Tomorrow, we will travel to Frankfurt and possibly on to Bacharach, a small wine town on the Rhine where there is a hostel in a castle. Staying in a castle was one of Darcy’s requirements for the trip.

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Click here to see all our Hamburg photos.

Bern

In the morning, we commenced with the normal routine. Our plan for the day is to travel to Bern and spend the day there, then try to catch a night train to Hamburg, Germany.

At Bern, we stored our luggage, booked our sleeper cabin for Hamburg, then rented a couple bikes. The Bern city center is very compact and is surrounded by the river Aare on three sides. The center is mostly comprised of 15th century buildings with arcades. It is very charming!

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We rode around for a while, then had lunch in Englische Anlagen (park next to the river). We laid out on a bed of rocks and were looking up at a waterfall and the Münster (cathedral). Yesterday at lunch, I was looking out at snow-capped peaks and today I am looking at a waterfall and charming row houses. I was thinking I should have taken a picture of where I ate lunch every day and send it to my coworkers. It is probably good that I didn’t. I’m sure they hate me enough as it is.

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After lunch, we explored a park near the Münster, where two guys were playing table tennis outside. Then, we visited the Ogre Fountain, which depicts an ogre feasting on a meal of small children. I love it!

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Next, we made our way to Marzillibad, where the locals go to swim and sunbath. The Marzillibad stretches along the banks of the swift Aare River. At various points along the stretch are stairways that lead down to the water. The locals will jump into the river upstream and swim to one of the stairways downstream. It looks like you would have to be a pretty strong swimmer to deal with the current.

Darcy and I laid out in the grass. She was in the sun and I was in the shade. She fell asleep on her back and got fried! We almost took pictures of her lines in the front, but it would be a little too risqué.

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After lying in the sun, we were ready to spend some time indoors. We went to the Kunstmuseum (Museum of Fine Arts). They have a strange mix of classic and modern art. We started with the modern and ended with the Old Masters. We had to rush through the end as they were closing. I wish we had started at the Old Masters, since I much prefer them to modern art.

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We had dinner at an outdoor table of a decent restaurant. It seems like everyone in Europe eats outside when it is nice out. I had a bratwurst meal and the sausage was so flavorful. Not like the bratwurst you get at a baseball game in the States.

The last thing we did in Bern was walk down Marktgasse, the main shopping street. Of course, there was an H&M (I will do a final tally when the trip is over). But, there were also many cool fountains on the stretch and an intersection with a crazy number of overhead lines to support the trams and buses.

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We boarded a train for Basil, where we had an hour layover, then boarded our night train for Hamburg. We were in a sleeper compartment that could hold six, but luckily, we were the only ones in it.

Click here to see all our Bern photos.

Interlaken II - The Top of Europe

We woke up, got ready, and ate breakfast at the hostel. Our plan today is to take a train up to Jungfaujoch, the “Top of Europe”.

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On our way to the train station, we stopped at the co-op and picked up some fruit and bread for lunch. Daily, we usually eat the breakfast provided by the hostel, fruit and bread for lunch, then go out to a sit-down restaurant for dinner. It has worked out pretty well.

We had to purchase separate rail tickets up to Jungfaujoch. Since private rail companies own the lines from Interlaken, our Eurail pas is not valid on those trains. We did get a discount though, but the tickets were still pretty expensive. Hopefully it will be worth it.

We took a train from Interlaken up to the town of Grindelwald. Grindelwald sits right at the base of the mountain Eiger. It is a spectacular setting! Homes are dotted up the hillside to the mountain. It is picturesque Switzerland.

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We spent about an hour in Grindelwald. We considered taking the First cable car, but it must only run during skiing season.

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Our next leg of the train ride was up to Kleine Scheidegg. For your reference, the trip from Interlaken is split into three legs: Interlaken (elevation: 1860 ft) to Grindelwald (elevation: 3393 ft) or Lauterbrunnen (elevation: 2612 ft), Grindelwald or Luterbrunnen to Kleine Scheidegg (elevation: 6762 ft), Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfaujoch (elevation: 11333 ft). The second and third legs are cogwheel railways in order to deal with the grade up the mountain.

At Kleine Scheidegg, we were above tree line and within snow territory. Darcy and I walked up a hillside for some pictures of Grindelwald and the mountains.

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We boarded our last train to the top. Almost the entire length is a tunnel within the mountain. On the way, there are two scenic stops that are basically holes punched in the side of the mountain. I understand that one of the holes is used as an emergency exit for climbers ascending the north wall of Eiger.

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When we arrived at the top, the station was completely underground. There are passages leading to the various complexes and attractions at Jungfaujoch. Everything looks very much like a James Bond movie. Speaking of James Bond, the cable car that leads up to Schilthorn Mountain is nearby. It was featured in a late 60’s James Bond movie (In Her Majesty’s Service I think). I wanted to visit that as well, but the cable car was closed this week for maintenance.

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At Jungfaujoch, we went outside and the view was simply breathtaking! We were standing at the foot of a glacier and snow-capped peaks surrounded us. Words cannot fully describe the scene.

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We also visited the ice caves, then went up to the Sphinx Observatory for some more breathtaking views. We had lunch on the Sphinx and I fed some bread to these black birds that live up there.

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By this time, Darcy’s hip was giving her some trouble from all the walking. I still wanted to hike from Jungfaujoch up to Mönchsjochhütte. It is basically a 45-minute hike up a snow path to a small complex overlooking another glacier. I went on my own and Darcy stayed back to bask in the sun at the Sphinx. I started the walk with a coat and sweatshirt on. Within ten minutes I was down to my t-shirt. On the way up, a sightseeing plane did a few circles around and landed right in front of me. It was pretty cool!

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At Mönchsjochhütte, I encountered a group of cross-country skiers and a hiker. There are dormitories right on the premises, so it looks like people use this as a base to explore the top of the mountains. The possibilities look endless up here. John, if you are reading this, I propose our next challenge be to scale the north wall of Eiger, then cross-country ski the top of the Alps. What do you think?

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On my way back down, I was able to set up a self-portrait. It didn’t turn out too bad.

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Darcy met me on the way down and we decided to head back towards Interlaken. Back at Kleine Scheidegg, I realized that you could actually see the Sphinx Observatory from there. On the way back, we took the other route down to Lauterbrunnen and walked to the base of Trümmelbach Falls. Amazing!

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We returned to Interlaken, had dinner, and went back to the hostel. We were exhausted! At the hostel, I began to realize how sun burnt I was. Because of the reflection of the sun off the snow, my neck under my chin got completely fried. I guess I am a redneck after all. :)

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By the way, the price to go up to Jungfaujoch was definitely worth it.

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Click here to see all our Interlaken photos.