Tuesday, April 17, 2007

To Bordeaux and on to Sarlat

Since our train to Bordeaux was scheduled to leave at 6:15 am, we decided to leave the hostel at 4:45. That would give us an hour to take the metro (since we have no idea how long it takes) and a half-hour to board the train. We got to the metro platform and it was deserted. The metro doesn’t start running until 5:30.

We hiked it back to the hostel and had them call us a cab. I said to the guy at the front desk, “Bonjour. Do you speak English?”

“Why would I speak English when I can speak French?” he responded.

With the cab ride we had plenty of time, but it was a bit more expensive than the metro (Є20 vs Є3,50). On the way we, crossed Avenue Des Champs Elysees and drove near the Eiffel tower. Its black silhouette looked very daunting in the early morning sky.

On to Bordeaux. Au revoir Paris!

We arrived in Bordeaux around 9:30 in the morning. We stored our luggage and decided to spend the day there then move on to Sarlat. One of our main quests in Bordeaux was to find Internet access. We walked up and down a pedestrian mall and finally found a café advertising WiFi. BTW, we found another H&M. Grumble!



Bordeaux 002

In Minneapolis, coffee shops and cafes with WiFi are overflowing with people and their laptops. So far, in Europe, I haven’t seen anyone in a café with a laptop. I figured that since this particular café was advertising WiFi, it would be ok to set up the laptop at the table. So, I did just that.

We ordered a couple drinks and a light lunch, and preceded to check email, upload pictures, etc… Maybe it was because we were on the laptop, or maybe it was because we are American, but it became quite apparent that the waiter did not like us.

First, Darcy ordered a biére sirop (beer with syrup) and he brought her a water with syrup. She tried to inquire why she received water instead of biére, but he just pointed to the menu, pointed to the drinks, and shrugged his shoulders. It wasn’t worth the argument, so Darcy drank diluted syrup (actually, she only took a few sips).

Next, we could see how he graciously brought out the meals to other patrons, but for us he plopped down the plates and sternly stated, “Bon apatite”.

Finally, he refused to acknowledge us until I called him out from across the room. “Miseur. L’addition!” (“Sir, check!”). He brought out our check with a disgusted look on his face. “Merci!” he said. Darcy also informed me later that he presented a piece of chocolate with the check to everyone else, but not us. What an asshole!

This has been my only bad experience with the French so far. Every other person that we have dealt with has been very kind and helpful. I think the French get a bad rap for the most part.

At the café, I wasn’t able to finish everything I wanted to online, so we walked around and found a large public square. I fired up the laptop and was able to snatch WiFi from a nearby business. By the time I finished my business it was time to get back to the station to catch our train to Sarlat.




Bordeaux 011

The train to Sarlat was very small. It consisted of two cars. Every other train we had been on so far had at least five cars. On the ride to Sarlat we were treated to endless grape fields (Bordeaux wine growing region), beautiful French countryside, and a medieval castle.








Train to Sarlat from Bordeaux 037

It was raining when we arrived in Sarlat. This was the first time we’ve had to use our umbrellas on this trip. We found our way to the city center to find a hotel. The Sarlat city center is made up of the old medieval part of the city. There are still remnants of the wall that once surrounded the city. The streets are very crooked and narrow. It was like a storybook town. The streets are lined with shops and cafes. Around every corner is a picturesque scene.






Sarlat at night 054

We came across “Hotel de la Mairie” in an alley, off a public plaza. They had a room for Є49 per night (the hostel room in Paris was Є40 per night). Our host was a man of Asian decent who spoke English. He was extremely kind to us and hospitable. The hotel had all the character and charm you would expect. It probably only had about ten rooms, but had a beautiful winding stair case, fireplaces, lanterns, and a bar/café that stretched out into the public plaza.






Hotel stairs - Sarlat 006

Our room was just as charming. It had exposed roof beams, a little writing desk, and a window looking out to the rooftop of the neighboring building and the public plaza. A few streets away we could see the top of a magnificent cathedral. Wow!








Looking outside our window of Sarlat Hotel 038

That evening, we had a light dinner and took a stroll through the crooked streets. We thought we were only going to spend one night in Sarlat, but it was so charming we would be silly not to spend two. Finally, I would have a day to sleep in. Traveling can wear a person out.



Click here to see all our Bordeaux photos.
Click here to see all our Sarlat photos.

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